Combining an agreeable climate, varied leisure pursuits, historic sightseeing and assorted cultural attractions, Guadalajara (gwah-dah-lah-HAH-rah) is one of Mexico’s most appealing destinations. Yet the city is often overlooked by vacationers scurrying to Mexico’s beach resorts. This is a shame, since Guadalajara and surrounding State of Jalisco are two of Mexico’s most beautiful and historic showpieces.
Mexico’s second largest city (population 5 million), Guadalajara has grown significantly in the last 10 years. Traffic congestion, some air pollution, and other urban inconveniences have somewhat tarnished the city’s provincial charm. These annoyances aside, it still earns its distinction as one of Mexico’s most pleasant cities, and best suits visitors wanting a taste of authentic Mexican culture together with modern comforts and attractions.
To many visitors, Guadalajara embodies the soul of Mexico. It is home to many traditions and products most identified with Mexico. Tequila comes from the state of Jalisco, as does Mariachi music and many classic Mexican dishes. The area is also known for the charro tradition: Mexico’s ornately dressed horsemen who perform a Mexican-style rodeo known as charreadas. The city’s friendly residents, referred to as Tapatios, are known for their civic pride and hospitality.
The city rests on a highland plateau in west central Mexico at an altitude of 5,200 feet. This mile-high plain is blessed with a splendid spring-like climate. Days are warm and sunny, humidity is low and evenings are cool and clear. Afternoon rainfall is common from June through September, when the area’s countryside is carpeted with velvet green pastures.
Guadalajara is known as the "city of roses," and like its sister city (Portland, Oregon), it is green, sophisticated, and charming. Many sections of this large metropolis have the atmosphere and pace of a small town. Parks, fountains, plazas, and wide tree-lined boulevards are sprinkled about the city. As a major center for the arts and education (there are three major universities here), the city is filled with book stores, galleries and fine museums.
Unlike Mexico City, the area did not have a developed native population when the Spanish finally settled the area in 1542. It first developed as an outpost for exploration of Mexico’s vast western region, and later became the capital of the province of Nueva Galicia. Through nearly 300 years of colonial rule, Guadalajara became an important regional center for trade. Lavish wealth from ranching and agriculture bestowed the city with handsome municipal buildings, ornate churches and colonial mansions.
Although straining to keep up with a recent growth explosion, Guadalajara has preserved numerous colonial treasures. The city’s downtown core is a lovely chain of flowering, fountain-filled plazas. The lively Plaza Tapatía, is a magnificent five-block long pedestrian mall brimming with stately municipal buildings, museums, department stores, cafes, and striking modern sculpture.
As for native crafts and
shopping, Guadalajara is unsurpassed. The nearby suburbs
of Tlaquepaque and Tonalá are world famous
for their exquisite folk and fine art traditions. The
area is particularly famous for fine ceramics, pottery,
blown glass, brass, copper and leather goods. Jalisco is
also the birthplace of José Clemente Orozco, one
of the world’s greatest 20th century
muralists. Much of his fines work is in Guadalajara,
adorning several public buildings.
Excursions to villages surrounding Guadalajara showcase the State’s rural flavor and diverse natural beauty. Of particular interest are the villages lining the shore of Lake Chapala, Mexico’s largest freshwater lake. Tapalpa and Mazamitla are tranquil alpine villages, high in the state’s rugged Sierra Madre mountains. Distilleries around the city of Tequila offer fascinating tours. Lagos de Moreno and San Juan de los Lagos are colonial towns famous for their religious festivals, fine folk art and colorful markets.
Today, visitors can take stock in Guadalajara’s affordability compared to Mexico’s beach resorts. Logging is outstanding from colonial inns to high rise deluxe hotels. Dining is excellent, featuring affordable classic Mexican cuisine and an abundance of international restaurants. The City’s active cultural scene includes diverse performing arts and some of Mexico’s most exquisite art galleries and museums. The State’s well known love for all types of music (not just mariachis) makes Guadalajara one of Mexico’s most musical cities.
Tapatios love the great outdoors, and prove the point by enjoying an assortment of recreational pursuits. Golf, tennis, and hiking are popular pastimes, while soccer, bullfights and Mexican-style rodeos (charreadas) have a huge following.
It’s no wonder the area has become a retirement mecca for Americans and Canadians. Some 30,000 year-‘round expatriates call Guadalajara and nearby Lake Chapala their home, while thousands more take up residency during winter months. Note: See Sec. IV-8 for retirement resources.
The opening of a $400 million World Trade Center and convenience of the nearby Expo-Guadalajara Convention Center have new hotels popping up like never before. The city has also developed into a major air transportation hub. Frequent departures connect Guadalajara with every major beach resort in Mexico, making it an ideal stop-over point for beach bound travelers.
Historic Guadalajara
Start your walking tour at the city’s colonial core, a series of lovely and historic pedestrian arcades and plazas in the heart of downtown. A unit of "tourist police" now patrols the city’s historic center. Its primary function is to assist visitor with directions and questions. (Refer to "Walking Tour" map at the front of this chapter.) first stop is at the Palacio Municipal (#1) with its interesting murals depicting the settling of Guadalajara in 1542. A few steps away is the Cathedral (#2). Begun in 1558 and consecrated in 1616, the enormous building is a strange hodgepodge of architectural styles, with two towering golden spires. The interior has some fine examples of colonial art and 11 richly decorated altars. In front is the Plaza Guadalajara (#3), a spacious square with a large fountain. Just off to the southeast is the Palacio del Gobierno (#4), built from 1643 to 1774. The spectacular ceiling mural of Father Hidalgo by artist José Clemente Orozco was painted in 1937 and is considered to be one of Mexico’s fines 20th century works of art.
Facing the Palacio is the Plaza de Armas (#5) with its Victorian-style bandstand of lacy wrought iron, a gift from France in 1910. (Live traditional band music Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday evenings.)
To the north of the Cathedral is the Rotonda de los Hombres Ilustres de Jalisco (#6), a graceful tree-shaded plaza with 17 stately doric columns, 12 bronze statues of distinguished native sons (curiously only two of which were military leaders), and tombs containing the remains of six of Jalisco’s most revered heroes.
The Museo Regional de Guadalajara (#7) is home to an eclectic collection of Jalisco art, archaeology and history. The building dates from the 17th century. There are two floors of exhibits surrounding a lovely courtyard of Roman arches and tropical gardens. (Closed Mon.) Across the street is the Plaza de la Liberación (#8), a large rectangular plaza with fountains and gardens. A new Wax Museum is now open, sometimes drawing more visitors than the far more cultured Regional Museum.
To the north end of the Plaza is the gracious Teatro Degollado (#9), a Neoclassic masterpiece of colonial architecture and theatrical beauty. The impressive interior is open for viewing Mon.-Sat. 10am-2pm. The theater stages opera and symphony performances. There is also a magnificent Ballet Folklórico performance each Sunday morning at 10am. Tickets are 20-80 pesos. Tel.(3) 658-3812. Directly behind the theater is an interesting fountain and statue commemorating the founding of the city at the Plaza de Los Fundadores (#10).
Continue through the Plaza Tapatia (#11) toward the Instituto Cultural Cabañas (#12). The Plaza Tapatia is a prime spot for strolling, window shopping, and people watching. It attracts all walks of life along its broad esplanades (sprinkled with sculptures and fountains) that cross several blocks. At the Plaza’s eastern end is the one of Mexico’s most fascinating buildings. Completed in 1810 as a "house of charity and mercy" the Instituto Cultural Cabañas served as an orphanage until the 1970’s. It subsequently became the city’s proudest cultural institute with a performing arts center, galleries, a fine arts school, and museum.
Aside from its lovely neoclassic architecture(designed by famed Mexican architect Manuel Tolsá), the Instituto has 23 flower filled patios connected by tiled corridors. The buildings main attraction is its stunning murals painted by José Clemente Orozco between 1936-39. A MUST SEE ATTRACTION. Closed Mondays; tel. (3) 617-4322. Tip one of the English-speaking guides in the office at the front entrance ($3-5 U.S.) for an explanation of the murals.
Nearby is the Plaza de los Mariachis, THE place to hear music and sip a cold drink. Also nearby is the Mercado Libertad, also known as the Mercado San Juan de Dios (#13). See description under Shopping.
Numerous other colonial-era buildings grace the downtown area. They include the Templo de Aranzazu (dating to 1752 and considered to have the city’s most beautiful main altar), the Templo de San Francisco (dating to 1550), the Santuario de Nuestra Señora del Carmen, and the Templo de Santa María de García served as Guadalajara’s cathedral from 1549-1618). All exhibit exquisite carved stone facades and richly decorated interiors.