Little visited Tlaxcala (tlahs-CAH-la) is Mexico’s smallest state. A land of low hills, jumbled mountains, and broad plains crossed by deep volcanic ravines, the City of Tlaxcala (the Capital) lies 113 km. to the east of Mexico City. Tucked between Puebla and Hidalgo States, Tlaxcala State is often bypassed by day-trippers from Mexico City that opt for better-known Puebla.

Despite its tiny size, the State carries a burdensome history. Tlaxcala had been inhabited for thousands of years prior to the Spaniards fateful arrival in 1519 (wall paintings near the village of Atlihuetzía date back to 10,000 B.C.). During the 15th century its four predominant tribes formed an alliance powerful enough to withstand domination from the omnipotent Aztec empire. This resistance was costly to the Tlaxcalans, as the Aztecs denied them trade privileges and enforced embargoes that nearly starved the Tlaxcalan people.

As Cortés and the Spaniards moved inland from Veracruz toward Mexico’s central plateau in 1519, they initially fought the fierce Tlaxcalans, then made them their allies. Tlaxcalan warriors fought side by side with

the Spaniards to conquer the mighty Aztecs. As collaborators with the new colonial masters, the Tlaxcalans received favorable treatment, but paid the price by being labeled as traitors by the rest of the country. Even today, the State maintains a largely self-sufficient and autonomous profile when compared to Puebla, its stodgy neighbor.

Tlaxcala visitor attractions center around two themes. The main one is its historic colonial- era cities with exquisite architecture and relaxed village charm. The City of Tlaxcala (founded in 1525) prefers to enter the 21 st century with one foot firmly in the past. It’s a mere 30 km. north of Puebla, and yet seems indifferent to its big city neighbor. It is one of Mexico’s least visited colonial cities, giving even the most jaded visitor a refreshing look at small town Mexican life.

A second reason to visit Tlaxcala is its fabulous archaeological sites. Topping the list are Cacaxtla, with its stunning ancient murals, and recently unearthed, Xochitecatl. These neighborign sites are on a hill overlooking Tlaxcala’s rolling green fields and pastures.

Note: A multi-region promotional effort known as the Ruta de Cortés has united Tlaxcala and four neighboring states in promoting surface travel in the corridor between Veracruz and Mexico City.